Denmark

Apr 21, 2024 - Apr 29, 2024

Cities:

København, Odense

Lodging:

Comwell H.C. Andersen Odense, Copenhagen Admiral Hotel

Transport:

Denmark

By Matt

Sun, April 21

Normally we don’t fly on a Sunday. Logan was very crowded as a result. This was our firect experience with the new Terminal E security setup. It was really pretty, but the line (even for PreCheck) was quite long.

Once through security, I'm always glad when the British lounge has the Negroni on the menu. When I able able to order a drink from the directly from my phone: chefs kiss. Top all that off with the fact that our flight boarded directly from the lounge, and it was a very nice start to the trip.

BOS → LHR

6 hours, 35 minutes
Airbus A380
3,254 mi

LHR → CPH

: 2 hours, 4 minutes
: Airbus A320neo
: 607 mi

Mon, April 22

Train to Odense

Comwell H.C. Andersen Odense

We had an uneventful journey from the airport in Copenhagen out to Odense. One of the challenges that is more common in Europe is that of the antique cobblestone pathways. Although our hotel was not that far from the train station, the last quarter mile was all cobblestone. It's never a good time dragging ones luggage any distance over uneven ground.

One random thing about the hotel was that there was a casino in the basement. We didn't visit it, the opening hours were a bit inscrutable, but I found myself there once by accident while searching for the men's room.

Kok&Vin

Our first dinner of the trip was at Kok & Vin. We were struggling to stay awake, so we started our walk over a bit early. We didn't expect to be seated early, but they had our table ready and so we sat. We were meant to be meeting Meg and we were surprised when she was late. Turns out that she was waiting for us outside the whole time.

This was when we observed that a few of the tables had Danish flags on them. We started speculating what it all meant. Was it first dates? Anniversaries?

Tue, April 23

Hans Christian Andersen Museum

We met back up with Meg to walk over to the Hans Christian Andersen Museum, which was ~600 feet away from the Comwell.

The Hans Christian Andersen Museum, or H.C. Andersens Odense, is a set of museums/buildings dedicated to the famous author Hans Christian Andersen in Odense, Denmark, some of which, at various times in history, have functioned as the main Odense-based museum on the author. more

Unless there is a specific or small exhibit, I don't bother with any audio tour when visiting a museum. I don't really have the patience, and I prefer to observe whatever I want without being forced in a specific direction. This museum is almost entirely driven by audio. You are given headphones with a receiver on the top which seems to get cues from transceivers throughout the space. They describe this as follows:

Your traveling companion through these magical exhibits is based on the latest technology. With the help of a headset, you will enjoy an engaging and unique audio experience that guides you and interacts with the multiple installations of the museum. All your senses will be activated, and you will never quite know what to expect.

In general, the experience was pretty cool. The only downside was that the headphones were a bit too small for my head and my ears were quite sore by the time we got to the end of the exhibits.

Cafe Vivaldi

Needing food and caffeine, we made an early stop at Cafe Vivaldi for sustenance. I think it's fair to say that the Danes are a fairly restrained people. We were a bit punchy early in the day, and while we definitely did not reach the level of stereotypical "loud Americans", we were definitely drawing looks from all the locals. This led directly to the quote from Meg: “They were jealous of our joy.”

Christian Firtal

We continued to wander Odense. Mostly stopping in various stores, admiring Danish furniture and lighting. We bought portable Danish flags in Flying Tiger. When we stopped for beer, we broke them out for our own celebration.

We continue our wandering which culminated with a stop at Handson Wines for a couple bottles of wine for later.

Storms Pakhus

It should be noted that as a general rule, food markets are a bit risky for me. Not because of the food, but rather that there's rarely enough seating and they can be very crowded. I find the need to find both what you eat and then where you can actually eat it stress inducing. Unfortunately, Storms Pakhus was not an exception to the rule. It was ridiculously crowded. The EARMA dinner participants combined with local trivia night to make the entire evening a challenge.

Once we had laid claim to a table, and the very loud band was done, we made the evening our own. Making good use of the time to catch up with many of our Swiss friends and enjoying several glasses of wine.

Wed, April 24

This was the first day of the conference so Jen and Meg were off to do official work things. I took the opportunity to wander Odense taking photos of random signs and buildings. I grabbed a lovely afternoon coffee and spent some time in the excellent Record Pusher store.

Sir Club

When at last the folks were done with the conference for the day, I met up with everyone at Sir Club. There were many people there already and Nicolas also joined in the party. This outing will henceforth be known as the time where Matt convinced a DJ that he spoke Danish when he doesn’t.

To be fair, it was very loud and he asked me the question backwards. For example, when I'm somewhere where I don't speak the language I would attempt to ask in the local language if the person spoke English. The DJ asked me in English if I spoke Danish. It seems less confusing now then it was at the time, but we were all speaking English and all he wanted was to get by me. Which didn't need as much exposition as it took. Everyone had a chuckle.

LaLou VinBar

Meg, Nicolas, Jen, and myself walked over to our next dinner reservation. We had a great meal. It started when we were reading the menu, and listing all the seafood in which we had interest, when the chef came over and offered to make us a custom seafood appetizer and a shrimp risotto with lobster broth.

Great food, wine, and friends. We capture a few choice quotes from the evening for posterity.

Meg: "Unprepared for joy. How sad."

Nicolas: "You laugh. I can show you an 18 minute risotto. Then you stop laughing."

Nicolas: And so I told her: “hold my banana and I’ll get the article.“

Thu, April 25

Brandts Klædefabrik

Once again all my companions were off to their conference for the day. Having already wandered through much of Odense, I planned out a directed path for further wandering. Normally I rely on Atlas Obscura for direction, but there aren't that many entries for Odense. I must have found some other list of "top things to do in Odense," because I otherwise don't know how I directed myself towards Brandts Klædefabrik.

Brandts Klædefabrik is the site of a former textile factory which has been reclaimed and now contains several small businesses as well as the Brandts Museum of Photographic Art. I believe this was couched as a "open air mall", but in fact it was really a collection of buildings with some shops. Being so early, most of said shops were not yet open and I wasn't really interested in the photography museum, so I kept on walking.

There was a bit of rain, so I stopped into Carl Hansen & Søn, where I ogled some beautiful chairs and sofas. Upon learning I was from the States, the gentleman working provided me with business cards for their NYC and SF stores. You know a store is high-end when there is a trained worker in the front window that is cording a chair by hand. On a rainy Thursday morning.

Olivia Brasserie

Needing more coffee, I found that Olivia Brasserie was open. In addition to a cappuccino, I ordered an omelet for second breakfast. It was still too early for much activity stateside, as a result I had the opportunity for some cafe culture as I slowly enjoyed my food.

I wandered further afield, spending some time down by the Odense Å (river).

Anarkist Beer and Food Lab

The conference goers were finally free, and I headed to Anarkist to meet up with them. I was there by myself long enough to have two beers.

Comwell H.C. Andersen Odense

Train to Copenhagen

Beer on the train with Nicolas

Copenhagen Admiral Hotel

Den Vandrette

After a bit of a kerfuffle with her flight, Naike made it to Copenhagen and joined us at dinner (already in progress).

Fri, April 26

Warpigs

Mikkeller Victoriagarde

Børsen

Wikipedia

Børsen (Danish for "the bourse" or "the stock exchange"), is a 17th-century commodity bourse and later stock exchange in the centre of Copenhagen, Denmark. The historic building is situated next to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, on the island of Slotsholmen. more